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By Norm
#27972
Gary, 2 questions I need answered do you need blinkers and do you need a cutout switch for an MOT? If you do what switchgear do you plan on using for this?
By Norm
#27979
Gary, the problem you have here with wiring diagrams is there is no wiring diagram for what you are doing. There is no diagrams for a 98 model Enfield that is using 1950 type switchgear, it is that simple.
By Norm
#27980
This is the simple way to wire a bike using early switchgear


Here is a basic wiring system for Enfields using a 4 wire stator and a Boyer power box for Enfields not using blinkers so this is for early ones. Bullets and twins the same. This can be done by using a standard piece of wire from a 3 wire extension cord. This is well insulated and is run from under the seat/battery box area to the headlight area.
Positive from the battery,(you can do it pos earth if you want to, but for simplicity I will go with neg earth) through a bakelite fuse holder to the right hand toolbox to a 4 pin relay.power in terminal of the relay. The reason for using a relay is the ignition switch wires are not heavy enough to carry the increased power being drawn through it. From this point also take a wire to the toolbox mounted ignition switch. The other wire from the switch goes to the trigger terminal on the relay. The other side of the relay trigger goes to ground. To the power out side of the relay you connect the red wire from the Boyer, power wire up to the headlight, (through the extension lead wire) a wire to the brake light switch and a wire to a coil kill switch also mounted on the toolbox.The reason for this switch is because once the motor is running it will continue to run on the alternator so you need to kill the coil to stop it. From the other side of this switch you take a wire directly to the coil positive. Also from this wire take a feed to an ignition on indicator light (LED is best) and other side of this light to ground. This leaves 2 wires left in the extension lead wire, one is for the tailight from the headlight switch, the other is for the ground from the headlight and the instrument lights.
This leaves the wiring up of the headlight and instrument lights, tail light and stop light and alternator that I won't bother going into unless somebody wants to know.
The point of all this is to prove you can do all of this with 3 wires in the main loom.
Cheers Norm
By whitey54
#27981
Hi Norm That is really good and its an easier way round, it i was getting a little confusing as i had so many other electrical issues but thanks to you i can get on with the job thank you for all your kind and very usefull knowlege great to talk to people in the know
Regards WHITEY
By Norm
#27982
Gary, if you get to this point where you have the toolbox wires sorted and power up to the ammeter (this is the wire coming from the relay to put power up front) come back and I will explain the next steps which are much easier
By Norm
#27996
Gary an alternative here is to print those notes off and take it to an auto electrician to do the work. They could then email me so I can tell them how the rest of how it needs to be done.Saves them having to work it out. The reason I can't tell you how to finish wiring the Boyer is because the motor needs to be running so you can work out which combination of wires to use. One thing I didn't mention is neg of coil goes straight to points
By whitey54
#28025
Hi Norm
many thanks for the extra info and that is a good idea as to a electrician i had a problem with the points wire going to neg on coil but found that by putting it on the pos side of coil it gave me a spark both at points and spark plug it fired up straight away i switched it off and restarted it a few times and when i went back to starting it up again it fired up but coughed and spluttered and cut out it was if the timming was out and it has not started up since,i dont think there is a lot wrong it as it fired up first kick and ticked over in all fairness if there is a spark at points/plug and fuel it should run!!!!! i dont know if by standing up for a few weeks if its wet sumped i believe if it does wet sunp it can cause starting problems i will have to find out
kindest regards with thanks Gary Whitey
By Norm
#28034
Hi Gary, coil will work wired either way but spark is better wired ignition to pos and points to neg, so I'm not sure why you were getting the problem. Timing won't be the problem because you had it running. Check to see if you still have spark. Wet sumping might cause plug foul but apart from a lot of smoke it won't cause problems. Plugs will fail, I fitted a new one last weel and in less that a 100ks it was dead. I am getting a bit sick of NGK plugs, they give up very easily, particularly if the bike is running a fraction rich, for some reason todays petrol kills them
By Norm
#28035
Gary, another thing while running it keep the alternator wires insulated from each other and the frame. I'm not sure if it can cause problems and I don't want to find out
By whitey54
#28045
Hi Norm I have same problem with plug failure i have a recently new Champion plug that has checked out so i think plugs are much of a muchness across the board, plugs today are hopeless my harley wont entertain any other plug than a genuine H.D plug, I was up my garage yesterday and again spark both ends but will not fire up its such a pain in the butt technically speaking if you have a spark at points and plug and fuel is has to start!!!!! but what i cannot work out is why it fireed up 1st kick after re,fitting the wires back on and i switched it off and re started it a few times and it ticked over sweet but when i went to start it again it gave up, so now im clutching at straws and checking other maybe issues but as you rightly said if it fired up once the timing has to be ok!! i think its just another R.E teething problem my last 500 bullet was so hit and miss you could go out on a run then the next day it would play up, today i was thinking of cleaning the carb as there maybe a blockage that is failing fuel flow now and then other than that i have not a clue where to look next as all obvious things are correct, the bike is in a heated garage and lives better than me so it cannot be damp i could also try another coil as it maybe breaking up but giving me the impression that it all ok one day Norm it will be sorted and all thanks to you mate

Regards Gary WHITEY

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