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By Chris Tindal
#9931

Dan, what year is your engine? the shorter bolt will be  imperial I guess, which just happens to fit my 99 Indian inner. My bike is mainly imperial but also has some metric threads!Just a thought.

By 1950s Bulleteer
#9938

Yeah thanks Chris the inner case is currently a metric one, however overnight the project has changed,  another inner case has been given to me by a friend, and this is an imperial one, so the shorter stud will fit that for sure. Having the extra case will of course also mean that I can get the filling hole drilled and tapped and all sorted while I'm still riding the bike and then do a swift swap.


Thanks for the reassurance that filling through the level hole is indeed possible and doesn't take too long, I'll be able to try out the case combination and make sure there is no fouling with the Bob Newby clutch.

By MadMike
#9941

Dan, Just a thought. If the case is cast aluminium then the wall is probably only 2 or 3mm thick. This will not normally allow full threads to be made and may the make your modification non viable. Most, possibly all, cast cases of this type have an area of thick aluminium cast where the threaded hole is to go. This allows full threads and an area to machine a flat surface to seal under the cap or bolt head. You might consider getting a 6 or 8mm area of wels applied inside the case to allow it to be drilled and tapped.


Of course my IKBA qualification with regard to Enfields could apply here.


Regards


 


MadMike. IKBA(Hons) ASBO(Orange Belt) GCE Relgious Studies(Calcutta Failed). 


 

By 1950s Bulleteer
#9942

Thanks for that tip Mike, I'm not equiped for doing welding, but I know a "man who can" so I'll get him to do this. Now I have the extra chaincase it will make it a lot easier to do extensive mods before doing the fitting.


 I'm going to try and get up to your 'gathering' if I can do it there and back in a day, I have commitments that mean I can't be away overnight at the moment.

By John L
#9965

Hi, Dan -


In reply to your original post :-


Question 1/ - This should give you a good idea of the filler plug location. (1960 Redditch Bullet)


http://s842.photobucket.com/albums/zz344/Motokatz/


Question 2/ - What you can't see is that the filler plug hole is tapped into a boss on its underside that almost doubles the thickness of the casing material at that point. In spite of this (and the fact the hole has a spot face)  the hole has just four threads for the plug to screw into.


From this you will appreciate that some welding will be required to make a new filler hole work.


Madmike was spot-on with his contribution.


Hope this helps,


 

By John L
#9967

Dan -


Sorry, I was trying to help, but link doesn't work.


Without the facility of being able to preview my post there's little point in attempting another, either.


Hope you get it sorted.

By 1950s Bulleteer
#9971

Thanks John L, the link did work, but it took me to a Photobucket page where I must enter a password to look at the picture, did you put that in your personal album? If you could put the photo in your public album instead I'm sure it would work no problem. I really would appreciate it if you could do that, then I can get the filler in exactly the right place.


 I have now got someone lined up to do the welding. So I'm looking forward to making a really good job of it.

By MadMike
#9973

Dan, you can make the weldded boss as thick as you like but IMHO ensure you get enough meat to allow a full 6 or 8 threads to allow the bolt to be tightened fully.


Also ensure that when you get the hole dilled for the bolt that you lightly counterbore  to produce a flat area which needs to be perpendicular to the hole. This is necessary to ensure that the bolt head and it washer can seal off the threaded hole and thus keep it oil tight. HTH.

By 1950s Bulleteer
#9974

Cheers Mike, I'll give the plug to the man who does the welding and get him to true it all up square.


 I'll also be taking into consideration that nothing must foul the top run of the chain!

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