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[stinkwheel]

I got a set of electra sliders pretty cheap... That said, althiugh they seem chunky enough, I'm not entirely convinced how well made they are in terms of dimensions. The slider rod sticks a long way out of the bottom, to the extent that I'm going to need a spacer washer under there so the nut doesn't bottom out on the threads.



In any case, I went for the tighter fitting gaiters which go under the cut-down shrouds. So here's how that looks OP.







I also took the oppertunity to fabricate a fork brace/mudguard bracket. It's not quite finished yet, should look ok once it's painted and fitted with some neat button-head fasteners and a silicone strip between the bracket and the mudguard.

[Lord-Toady]

Do those two chrome bolts that hold the shrouds on and go through and hold the forks need to have any special properties. I have been fettling about trying to fit some Lucas indicators to replace those bullet ones but the bolts on there were too long and hitting the indicators thread. I tried cutting one down but took too much off so got a couple of 8mm hex head bolts from the hardware shop for 40p, cut them down to 60mm and put them on for now and the indicators now fit. I dont like the idea of cut down bolts as a long term solution as they will rust on the ends so will order some 60mm hex head ones. Are stainless ok or should I go zinc plated high tensile? TBH the bolts that were on there didnt look anything special just the same as the hardware shop bolts but with chrome heads. I think my forks are leaking as there is oil all around the top the shrouds and inside the casquette.

[stinkwheel]

I'm not certain the chromed bolts you have there are original anyway. The originals on mine were yellow-passivated, high-tensile flange-bolts.



Personally, I would be using high tensile (grade 8,8) in that application as the fork clamp is a load-bearing part of the chassis. I've used a couple of BZP high tensiles in there on mine. If you were using stainless, I'd be going for high grade (A4 or better) but even then, it's still not as good as proper high tensile steel.

[Lord-Toady]

Thanks Stinkwheel, I think I will order some yellow zinc plated high tensile bolts like you use. I normally always use high tensile bolts on my bikes where the bolts are load bearing like footpeg hangers etc.


In the parts book unless I am mistaken the bolts are PART No. 140580 but they do not look anything special but I think it's better to be safe than sorry!

[stinkwheel]

Ahh. Mine originally had part: 145863 which is both flanged and has a plain shoulder section.



Looking closely at the picture of the part number you quoted though, it appears to be a BZP high tensile bolt and stamped 8,8 on the bolt head. I wonder if your exisitng ones are mild steel or stainless? You could check with a magnet.

[Adrian]

I'd want a plain shouldered bolt rather than a hex set screw with the thread all the way up. A.

[Lord-Toady]

I tried a strong magnet on my original chrome bolts and they are stainless. The bolts i have in from the hardware store are marked 4.6 and are galvanised but I am not sure if that mild steel is stronger or weeker than the stainless. I have some high tensile bolts on the way.

[stinkwheel]

4,6 means it's got a tensile strength of 400MPa and should be tightened to 60% of that to remain in the elastic phase. It's effecticvely a marking indicating it's made of cheese, but cheese that will snap in a reproduceable manner. It's PROBABLY weaker than your stainless (although that can be pretty unpredicatable), but less brittle. I'd be using a minimum of a grade 8,8 bolt in that application or an A4-80 stainless if you insist on it.

[Lord-Toady]

Thanks Stinkwheel I have some 8.8 yellow passivated bolts coming so will swap to those.

[Presto]

Now there's knowledge! Can you tell us what ft/lbs torque 60% of 400MPa would be? Thanks