Forum

[Mark M]

Art, if you're changing gear ok when under way your clutch problem is not part of the gearbox. My advice would be to use the lightest springs you can, don't go heavy that makes it worse. Two suggestions, use ATF rather than ordinary oil in the primary case. It will probably help (it does for me) although some don't notice a difference. Second, when adjusting the pushrod free play at the cable end do it right up until binding and then back off just a tiny gnat's wotsit. This helps on all the Enfields I've worked on. One other thing, if you have new clutch plates make sure they are not too thick, the ones H's sell are very good quality but just occasionally can be a little too fat leading to a full clutch basket and little lift. And by the way, clutches are the bug bear of all Enfield owners, now you are a member of the fraternity you must share our pain! Good news is they are fixable, patience will get you there. And if not, you can always buy a Bob Newby version although you might want to sit down when you read the price....

REgards, Mark

[arty70]

Thanks for the observations as to the tank, it was purchased from our hosts I was assured it was a Redditch tank and has all the period transfers and fits correctly, the seat is Indian as it was very cheap and will be changed to either a single or period double, I like the look of the single but do like to shuffle around when I am riding so still having thoughts, Chris has offered longer shrouds which I will fit to cover the seals.

Mark, thanks for the clutch advice .As purchased the bike was just more than A lot of parts lashed together,so I dont know if I have the correct parts, we assembled it as per technical notes but did not get good gear selection, changing the inner ratchet sorted most if that out. Pulling the clutch lever gives very little movement of the clutch plates, and the handle bar lever needs a lot of force,I will use the softest springs I have but I noticed the adjuster on the clutch arm is so far out I can hardly fit the small alloy cover . Which makes me think the two piece rod is too long

So my plan when I get back on Saturday is , reroute the cable, check, fit the lighter springs,check take the long clutch rod measure and record its length to check it is hardened ( to see if its the right material) grind 2 mm off check clutch again.If its soft material or no better order new one from Mr H and start again.

[stinkwheel]

The clutch on the bike I just built was dragging and very stiff. When I looked at it, the springs were almost totally compressed and there was very little in the way of lift. Almost like the springs were becoming fully compressed.



After checking and re-checking it was all assembled correctly and I wasn't missing any parts, I decided that I'd go with my gut feeling about it all being wound up too tight and put a single washer on each bolt under the pressure plate to space it out slightly. Effectively making the posts on the back plate a couple of mm longer. This worked a treat.



Before cutting down pushrods, shove a bit of wire/welding rod all the way through the mainshaft to make sure there aren't any extra ball bearings lurking in the middle. It would be easy to pull the rods out of each end and forget it was in there.

[arty70]

Thanks for the advice, I am a bit confused ( thick ) where the washers go do they slide in the pins on the clutch cap or on the pins on the clutch centre off to the workshop tomorrow for further tests but I will check for the ball bearing first, one of my friends suggested I should order some wing nuts to make the stripping and rebuilding quicker!

[stinkwheel]

When you reassemble the clutch there are three "posts" sticking up from the clutch centre that you put springs over. You then bolt the pressure plate down on top of them with three small bolts. I put a small washer between each of those posts and the pressure plate so it was sitting slightly higher than normal and compressing the springs a little less.



They were slightly odd washers because they needed an M6 hole but an outside diameter small enough to fit up the centre of the spring. I found them in the bottom my magic box of assorted fittings which I've hoarded over the years. My alternative would be to drill out some M5 washers.

[arty70]

Clutch sorted, gear change working well, followed advice checked clutch rod cleaned and removed burs from rods , sorted out softest springs, re-routed cable but when checking clutch plates the friction plates appeared to be new as they had larger friction area and the steel plates were clean but with imprints of a friction plate with with more inserts. I had checked the steel plates for flatness when I had first stripped the clutch, but I went over them again on a sheet if glass the middle flat plate actually had a slightly dished centre and a 30 thou warp. After annealing and careful use of a vice, blocks of metal and a hammer the warp was reduced to 5 thou. After assembly and careful clutch spring tightening it worked as designed. A road test confirmed the gears were working as designed, a long struggle thanks for all the advice and positive comments .I will order a new centre plate in my next order to our hosts.

Next jobs, my 12 volt conversion and my side car project. More to follow and hopefully pictures.

[Alan R]

Hi arty and WELL DONE, MATEY !!!------------bin there, done that, know how it feels etc........In my last employment I worked on Army tank gearboxes where 1,000 HP let loose completely welds up a multiplate clutch assembly..Took the best part of a morning to remove and you could kiss your bonus payment goodbye into the bargain !!