Forum

[Mark M]

Tim, I know that now! As I described in my post the terminal layout is what fooled me, the red dot on the old unit was covered in dust and not very clear on the new one, it looked like a copper rivet. And as I said, nowhere in the manual does it tell you this. I'm generously sharing my unfortunate experience rather than hiding my head in shame!

REgards, Mark

[Scalyback]

Nobody mentioned that they smell bad too, when they go bang!

[jefrs]

I've seen any number of capacitors explode at work, the stuff we were doing had to be tested.
Polarity being important 'cos if you get it wrong the leaves of foil try to force themselves apart.

A good multi-meter will have a capacitance meter on it to test them, or a perhaps cheaper dedicated capacitance meter because old caps lose their capacitance and can eventually go short circuit (conducting). Check resistance (ohm meter) is open circuit, conducting is bad.

Anything seen oozing out of an old cap then discard it, old ones used wax insulation. May sound silly but try smelling them, bad old ones have a peculiar unpleasant smell.

Test before use.

[John M]

Mark, it is worth replacing the capacitor as not only does it allow you to run without a battery, it also allows the bike to start with a flat battery. I have an Indian Bullet with the Eureka electronic ignition and a modern voltage regulator/rectifier. It has no battery, but is fitted with a 2MC copy as sold by Hitchcocks. This bike starts easily and runs happily with the lights illuminated, although there are no extras such as indicators to tax the system too much.There is no way it will fire up without a capacitor or charged battery.
My Laymans understanding of the 2MC capacitor is that it stores electricity in a similar manner to the battery, but for a very short period, allowing a constant voltage, either that or it's witchcraft.

[John M]

Beezabryan, I had to smile, I have not seen mention of the Smoke Escaping theory for ages.