Absolutely. It is all pretty straight forward but it is a struggle to get the wheel in and out with no hinge on the guard. I find it all goes ok if a put a couple of 4x2" blocks under the centre stand. Yours is a lot cleaner than mine but spring is here and it might be time for a clean!
Johnny, I'm not sure how it will work out by just ordering spacers, I hope it does but I have a lathe so any spacers I need I can just turn up to get the correct fit as I think you would have needed to do to fit the rear speedo drive. I have done a couple of those but can't remember any spacer sizes
I don't have a lathe, but have a friendly local machine shop and a CAD program for dimwits so I'm no stranger to getting one off stuff motored up to my designs (parts for the headlamp support and cable tidy):
So I'm getting the standard stuff as reference material.
You can just shim the whole thing up with a number of appropriate washers but then it is a total pain in the arse to reassemble when you are forced to pull it apart. I did my set up on the Myford so there is just one spacer for each location. The axle was I think turned out of 41/40 and the measurements whilst precise were reasonably straight forward. I set it up so that the speedo drive sits on a spacer between it and the bearing and then screws up tight with a threaded spacer with flats that locates in the swing arm. On the other side there is a spacer between the bearing and the brake plate that has a shoulder on which the brake plate positively locates. I've used 2RS bearings so there is no need for dust protection. There is then another spacer that has flats for the swing arm and a clamps the brake plate. I spent a lot of time sorting out the height and parallel of the brake plate and the plate anchor bolt in order to get maximum engagement of the brake shoes without clobbering the three blots that hold the cush drive together. I found these were badly set up on both my old machines and that there was little flex available. I ended up making new mounting bolts so that the drum sprocket could be tightened right up and still allow the sprocket/drum to slip back and forth with only the rubber blocks holding it in place. I made the wheel nuts out of 1" AF hex stock because is suitably close to a Whitworth hex and the axle was threaded with 9/16" at 26tpi. It's been together for a few yeas now and has been fine the only thing that grates a little is that who ever set up the rear wheel (it came with another bike) laced it up with the long spokes only crossing twice with is a no no. However they are still tight and true so I'll let that sleeping dog lie. Hope this is useful. s:)
Oh quick correction. The spacer on the speedo drive side isn't threaded. I was thinking of my old 51 Bullet with the draw bolt on the off side. The spacer with the flats in this case is just a nice fit and the whole thing pulls up tight with the wheel nut. What I would be tempted to do if I made another one would be to put a square on the end of the axle so I could undo the wheel nuts with just one large spanner which is compatible with a nice tool roll.
The speedo drive spacer is shown on the illustration for the speedo drive parts - which kinda makes sense, and kinda doesn't - so I've ordered that and, with your help, I reckon I'm starting to get the job straight in my head.