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[Scalyback]

Maybe there is nothing wrong with my military, it could just be trying to communicate in morse code.

(If that is correct then it can't spell!)

[Frank]

Pinking perhaps? Try fresh super unleaded 97ron. Worth also checking the breather system for blockages. All the years standing around it's bound to have gathered loads of internal condensation and the pipes block very quickly.

[ChrisD]

Dave B
Have you confirmed the rotor and/or stator are tight? Sure doesn't sound like pinking though

Scalyback - I had that odd intermittent clanking on my 1996 500 classic and it was a loose primary chain that would occasionally hit the chaincase, as MarkM suggests. Once I tightened up the slipper tensioner a tad it all went away. It could even be a bit of loose swarf in the chaincase. Some of that is quite thick. I even found more lumps still fixed (but loosely)inside the engine crankcase when I pulled the crankcase apart a couple of weeks ago - and that engine had done ~12000km.
Cheers
ChrisD

[Marcel]

Hi Dave,
I almost changed everything on my bullet before I found out that the throttle had some play in the carburettor body!
The clacking noise appears as soon as you lift the throttle for example more than 30 percent. quite loud actually! Looks also like it appears only under load. Not a real problem but very annoying!

[trevorch]

I would vote for the primary chain with the slipper tensioner out of adjustment; can be irregular, whereas a badly adjusted tappet will tend to match engine speed. My EFI was just as noisy at my earlier 2007, despite hydraulic valve lifters. After fitting a better performing exhaust I couldn't hear it any more.

Cheers TrevorCH

[Dave B]

Thanks again for the continuing thoughts/ideas.

If I may ask just one more 'idiot' question, do I have to undo the valve lifter thingy on the tappet cover before attempting to remove the cover? (Electra x). Also, I can't seem to find any reference to using a feeler gauge (or clearances etc) in the pushrod adjustment procedure. Is it just done by feel? (making sure they can rotate "thumb free" as the handbook says, with no up and down movement).

[Frank]

Undo domed nut on cover and pull it off, cable still attached. Turn engine over slowly with kickstart until you are sure a pushrod is at it's lowest level. You should be able to turn the rod and there should be no up and down movement. Adjust if necessary and do the same with the other valve. Replace cover. 0 clearance so no feeler gauge required. If the noise is only under load I can't see it will be the valves but no harm checking.

[Scalyback]

Thanks all for the replies, Will have to check the primary chain again. I expect it is the indian original and seemed ok but will be more thorough this time


how much play does it have? (Tornado came with no manual of course!)



apologies to Dave B for hijacking one of your threads.

[Dave B]

Many thanks, Frank, that's very helpful.

Scaly, no apology required whatsoever. It was interesting to see (and hear) your bike, and I hope you manage to get it sorted.

Thanks again to all contributors.

[Frank]

Dave, I should have said check them when the engine is cold. Turning the rods with thumb pressure is about right, being able to spin them is too loose and up and down movement is far too loose. Adjusting them is fiddly so make sure the rods have dropped to the lowest level before checking. There is not much travel before they start to rise again.