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By PeteF
#31219
Normal solder used for electrics is typicaly 60% tin, 40% lead.
Tinman's solder seems to be 62% tin 38% lead.
I'm no metallurgist but I would have thought the more tin in the mix the better, so the Tinman's just has an advantage.

Plumbers solder is 32% tin 68% lead (though lots of people use lead-free these days)so this should perhaps be avoided.
Silver solders are stronger but have a much higher melting point which quite easily spoil the temper of the wire. I've got cables soldered with ordinary electrics solder which have been in use for years.
I recently had a nipple pull out of a clutch cable (not one I'd made) which hadn't been splayed at all but managed to survive a couple of hundred miles in my hands. Don't know how much use it had had before.

Alan, the problem with the solderless, clamp on type is that the clamping screw easily damages the strands of wire and this can lead to failure
By Alan R
#31221
-----------not if you "tin" the cable middle section first..this gives the screw something to bite on without the splaying that you mentioned... Put the cable into position and clamp, then continue as before....I like to see a small amount of solder run out of the non-countersunk end to show complete penetration through the nipple.... Totally grease-free and a good soaking in Bakers Fluid flux is essential......

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