Forum

[Norm]

Hi Jacob, certainly can't hurt with 48 volts across the purples, seems high but if that is what it is. If you are only going to use the 2 purples you can go back to the original Indian rec/reg unit. The D/C side of things you achieved easily getting the headlight onto D/C it is the charging circuit that has gone west for some reason. quote " I have re-used some of the original wiring, but also cut all unnescessary wires. All ground wires are both relocated and new" I'm not sure what you have done in here the only wire that became obsolete is the orange wire from the A/C reg going to the front in the loom. Were you having problems with this and that was the reason for wanting to change from A/C to D/C?

[Norm]

Hi Jacob, re reading the post where the problem started. Firstly the rec/reg shouldn't be mounted in the toolbox they get warm, this is why they have fins on them so they should be mounted externally to get a bit of airflow over it.To me it could be a battery problem because the alt is working flat out thus the needle was full positive, dew on the inside of the glass is not abnormal, air can get in through the bulb holder in the rear. Important that if the needle swings fully either way don't ride it till you establish what is wrong. Needle fully to negative after the stop indicates that either the rec/reg has given up because it was having to punch too much power (you say till then needle was fully positive) and from what I can think you were riding with the headlight on at this stage so with no power being delivered from the rec/reg of course it would indicate full discharge with lights and ignition on. With a fully recharged battery you say everything worked correctly but the rec/reg got warm again. Did it get warm without the motor running? if it got warm with the motor running that is perfectly normal. Getting back to the battery, a bad battery will do very strange things, I was getting 19 volts D/C at the battery recently, another battery and problem solved

[JTL]

Hi Norm ... I'll try answer all your qustions. If anything is not clear or more info needed, please let me know... Regarding ground wires: I have made two hubs in the casquette for instrument lights, indicator lights, pilot lights and headlight. The hubs are connected to the frame (not front forks) by 2,5 square mm wire. Some excisting wire and some 1,5 square mm wire connects from lights to the hubs. Rear lights, battery, relay, ignition switch and reg/rect are connected to the frame underneath the seat. Wires ranging from 1 to 2,5 square mm are used for this. Paint has been removed so all connections are metal-to-metal. The ammeter has no light; it's a sort of sealed construction (# 141630). The orange wire is cut; so is the yellow/red. Some of the original ground wires has been replaced with a bigger size. The new reg/rect was recommended to be placed in the tool box. After the first ride it had the same temp as the rest of the bike; not warm at all. When I put the freshly charged battery in and tested the light, the engine was not running and the reg/rect not warm. When I started the engine the reg/rect got warm pretty quick. Jacob

[JTL]

I'm working on a wire diagram for the new set up. As soon as it's done I will post it. While doing this all wires will be checked again; so will connections. If anythings is wrong with either of the batteries how will Vdc readings be after being recharged? One of my batteries is older and the other is new. Can a new battery be ruined by too low charging on the bike? Jacob

[another Allan]

Hi Jacob. Fully re-charged, your batteries should read about 13 Volts. Leave them for a day and measure them again. If each one still reads the same, they should be ok. If one has dropped by 0.5 Volts or more, it is likely to be on its way out. I would ensure that the battery you are using is ok for the reasons Norm has outlined. Having one discharge due to not being charged whilst running the bike should not have 'killed' it. Leaving a battery fully discharged for a long period will do the job, though.

[Norm]

Hi Jacob everything you have done appears correct

[JTL]

Hi Alan and Norm ... I'm preparing a battery test for both batteries. I have to do all the little tests to get the greater picture. I'm very glad that I can share the test results with knowledgable people here on this forum and get good feedback. As you say Norm, everythings appears to done the right way, but sometimes an obvious fault is not the first to be discovered. This is why I will double check and draw a diagram for my particular set up. I hope this next stage will tell something new and of course that things are done the right way. I'll let you know when new facts are ready. Jacob

[JTL]

Battery test is done. The older one (12000 km; 2 1/2 year old(: charged 13,59 V, after 24 hrs 12,63 V, after 48 hrs 12,55 V. The new one (2500 km; 3 months): charged 13,24 V, after 24 hrs 12,8 V, after 48 hrs 12,74 V. The tes was done at app. 19 degrees Celcius. I'm quite sure what to read from these results. Jacob

[another Allan]

Hi Jacob. In my opinion, both batteries are likely to be ok. There are more scientific tests that can be carried out with special meters, but if a battery for use on a kick-start bike is holding its charge for at least several days then it should be fine. If it drops below 12 Volts over a few days (assuming nothing is connected to it!) then its is on its way out.

[JTL]

I meant to write NOT quite sure, but you kind of answered that already, Alan. As the wiring seems to be correct I still don't know what really happened during my two test rides. The wire diagram is coming on fine. I hope to finish it soon, and will post it for comments. Hopefully it will tell me more about the situation. Jacob