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By Dean
#25053
Hey guys, the bike is a 2002 350Es left shift. As previously mentioned, the bike will start up if I turn the key on, and run a jumper from the positive terminal of the battery and touch the starter terminal. Runs beautifully since I re-installed the boyer from step one. The only remaining problem is that the bike will not start with the kick starter, no matter how many times I kick it. But arcing across the starter treminal and it pops right off. Occaisionally the starter motor will ingage and once again the bike starts right up. I would assume that I am either dealing with a bad switch at the handlebars or starter relay switch. The clicking in the electrics box would lead me to believe it is the relay. Agree?
By Dean
#25054
shorted across the relay and the starter turned over. thanks, I will get a new relay. what do you suppose is keeping the bike from starting when I try to kick start it?
thanks,
By Dean
#25055
Alan, thanks for the e-bay listing. Until I get the new relay I will just keep a scredriver handy for start ups.
By Alan R
#25059
Hello again DEAN---------- not starting on the kick-starter but does with the starter-motor ?? }--OK, well someone's got to be brave and say..... Logic would suggest that it's your own technique at fault, I'm afraid ( Is it safe to come out now ??)...Our mate LES H came up with a good 'un which I now use with great success....At this point and for the purpose of practice only, start your bike using the starter motor and warm the engine to full operating temp( Maybe go for a short ride ??).. This will a) Make things a bit easier than from cold, and more importantly---b)Gives you that psychological "boost" knowing that it does actually start...So now you can perfect this following kick-start method }--------------- IGN. on ----- hold de-compression lever down ----gently kick the engine over until the Ammeter needle goes to the "-ve"--------- continue rotating the engine until the needle moves (sometimes referred to as "Flicks" ) back to the "0" ie]-- the middle position where the piston is at the start of its' power stroke----- NOW THIS IS THE EXTRA PART}--- turn the engine a bit more so that the piston is now at the start of its' induction stroke ---------- release the de.compressor and engage the choke( only when it's a cold start )----- kick-start the engine !!!.....Vrooom---Vroom--Vroom ??? = HooRay !!! "How much do I move that last bit ??" I hear you say--------try this then}-- move the kickstart lever to the bottom of its' stroke and keep it held down.. Now let it come back up by approx. 1/4 of its total travel and push down again and hold it down.... it's that amount and at that position... In fact it's easier to maintain control if you use that method to move the crank at any time during your start procedure rather than using the full swing or "Bits" from the top end of the swing.... I hope that makes sense ??? As I say,after reading LES H's description and giving it a go, I now use it automatically......
By Alan R
#25060
------------sorry, forgot to mention that you check for a Prop Stand cut-out switch which might be giving intermediate faults ????
By John R
#25065
You don't really get that ammeter bit with a Boyer.
By Alan R
#25066
Ah !! now there's a good point (sorry) for retaining the contact breakers, maybe ??.......Oh yes, he re-fitted the Boyer, didn't he ??..........But still helpful notes for those WITH contact breakers....So how DO those of you with an electronic ignition set your engine up for kick starting ??
By Dean
#25085
will work on my kick start technique. In the mean time the bike fires right over with the electric atarter, but I'm having to activate the starter by shorting across the relay, whilst I wait for the one I have coming from e-bay (thanks Alan for the post). My next move is to put the Amal carburator on that is still in the box. May be getting back to you guys regarding tuning. Thanks again, Dean

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