Forum

[Alan R]

Hello there, Tim G ---------- "Old Bird" ???? Really !! Well, actually prehaps you do have a point. VULTURE would seem appropiate. Physically hunched and beaky, I hover over the dead carcass of an Enfield then, with a sqwark like a Lucas 6v horn, I swoop down to strip it clean of spare parts. Nice one----thanks matey. Now why am I sat here at the computer ?? Oh yes, regarding the chrome cover-----guess who has just done a plug & points etc only the other day and had exactly that happen to him ?? I bet you can't guess can you ?? As Mrs Doyle used to say }----- Go on--go on---go on --- go on, ----( deep breath )---------go on --go on --go on-- Give up ?? It was >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ME !!  Trying to be serious now-- Mr Spock logic would say }---it was working before you touched it, ergo something you did has changed that scenario. I think that slight flicker on the Ampmeter is significant.  Best regards from "Fur & feathers"

[Alan R]

-----------Additional to above }---- I see you are doing a Fuse Hunt and a Battery Check ?? I can help you on that one. Yes, indeedy.  The battery is a white, plastic thing full of acid & water -- is  usually strapped on the L/H side of the bike and has wires an stuff bolted to it. I can send a photo if it helps ?? No idea at all where a second fuse might be.  Does that help any ??  LAUGH & the world laughs with you,----- CRY and it's 'cause the Enfield is bost again.  (Old, Hitchcock proverb taken from  12th century scolastic writings discovered deep in the vaults of Chadwick End Manor).  

[Beezabryan]

A points set up will fire at quite low voltages whereas boyer & the like will not


although as the rest of the electrical equipment is working it is not likeley to be a battery problem. Rather there is a physical problem ie a broken connection -


IF there is another fuse it may have blown, if it has there may be a chafed wire shorting to the frame.


Otherwise there is an open circuit which means a broken connection like at the coil for instance. So check from the points housing backwards Assuming the suggested check with the chrome cover (if it has one) removed does not sort it


once I had a wire to the coil break at the soldered bit attached to coil terminal


I suppose there is a possiblity that the coil is u/s. It has happened to me & the bike ran with an old VW Polo coil for a couple of years before I did a proper replacement


My 2 drachma

[TimG]

I am advised by the dealer who supplied my bike (new!) that 2006 iron barrel Classic models do not have a secondary fuse anywhere...I offer this merely for information.


Alan R - re "old bird", check out your P G Wodehouse to get that reference! Wasn't intended as a personal description as I've never met you, but there again, from your comments, if I did...


Beezabryan - am going to do a systematic hunt with AVO tonight to see where (if anywhere) there is a break in the circuit. If it is somewhere in the loom I will leave it to an expert to fix. I hope it's the coil, as this is (relatively) easy to replace...


Cheers


TimG

[Alan R]

Hello chums !! Wack-O!! and all that stuff. Hey, Beezabryan--- if you are handing out Drachma's does this mean that poor (literally) , old troubled Greece has left the EEU ?? Nothing on the news about that. Ah-ha !! that "old bird," Tim G??  But I have yet to make my Berlin broadcasts by invitation from the BMW forum. Spiffing--don't you know ??   I used to go out with an AVO once, but she was too testy a charachter, constantly switching moods. I never could get the measure of her resistance and I finally went ohm, via a wheatstone bridge and  through a field. She said " A little impedance was not re-volting" -- but I refused to agree. However, we both loved that AC / DC gig. on Sat night. It is with reluctance that I now sign-off  ( Hoo-ray ??),

[Mickey]

Hi Tim,


All electrical loads should cause the ammeter to flicker. Assuming it's not defective (unlikely) remove the headlamp & check the ammeters conections & make good. It's worth checking the other wiring connections whilst so doing. It's a common cause of no ignition & so easy to check out.


REgards Mickey 


 

[Norm]

 Only takes a few minutes to go around all the connectors , unplug and replug and while you are at it you may notice something wrong. After unpluging each connector turn the ignition on and see if anythin changed, switch it of and go to the next connector

[TimG]

OK...


Last night I took a tour of the ignition circuit with an AVO.  I have established that power gets from the battery, via the ignition switch to the coil and thence to the moving CB point (reading 12.3v). However, the ammeter will not move from centre regardless of the position of the engine (Norm - it does if I put another load - e.g. lights - on it, so I reckon the ammeter itself is OK). No spark at the plug either.


Given that my knowledge of bike electrics is about on a par with Fred Flintstone's, I'm not sure, but I think this means that the ignition circuit is behaving as if it has lost its earth path- i.e. it is behaving as if the CB points are always open.


Could this be right? If so, how might this happen? NB I have ordered a points set and condensor from our hosts in case  the points have gone U/S..can't see anything wrong with them at all though, so it looks as if I might have to put the bike in the hands of a Higher Power (i.e. someone who knows a lot more about bike electrics than I do!).


Cheers


TimG

[Alan R]

Hi matey---- it's old bird Alan again ( I kind of like that handle ). Before you get any "higher power" in , which is usually spelt as >>  £££££££££££££££££££££ are there any of our guys near you who can call-in and give practical assistance. Two heads and all that. I'm in Shropshire and can travel up to a 50 mile radius at any time ( dis-gracefully retired these days ) if that's of help to you. Did you read up on that Wikipedia info ?? It does show the physical set-up quuite well. I have a spare workshop manual for free if you want. (or anyone for that matter)---just aking for the P&P ( £3 ?? ).

[Gwilly]

 (quote) I'm not sure, but I think
this means that the ignition circuit is behaving as if it has lost its
earth path- i.e. it is behaving as if the CB points are always open. (End quote)    I think your nearly there Tim. If the points were shorting to earth permanently then the fact that they open and shut would have no effect. No collapse (switch off) of primary circuit in coil= no spark from secondary( HT lead and plug) therefore check insulation fibre washers and nylon spacer are undamaged were spring fixes to threaded post. Vital as must earth through the point itself. That spring must not touch any metal. condensor body insulation or wire could break down and give permanent short. Undo nut that holds it to the base plate and lift clear of the metal. Try again,      regards gwilly.