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[STU]

I use LEDs in my work as a lighting engineer. For vehicles they work very well when part of an OEM design but as retrofits I find that LEDs polar curve (direction of light intensity) is too different from conventional filament lamps to work correctly in most of the light fittings on a bike - panal, meter and position lamps largely excepted if the LEDs have been chosen carefully.
Obviously new designs are being introduced all the time, but again (as Bertie said) the AC generator output on a Bullet can cause problems (particularly) with higher power LEDs, which mostly require a DC constant current supply.
Norm, 60 years without an MOT? I can't get my head around that. Either way, yes the LED lamps may light but the beam pattern will be most unsatifactory, unfortunately.

[Norm]

Ah well Stu, mankind has to keep experimenting and eventually we will get LED headlights to work so now with my LED globes(bulbs) and with our power costs soaring I think I will get a 12 volt transformer, get a couple of old headlights and use them as lighting in the lounge room, at least LED's don't attract insects when you leave the doors open at night, no idea why

[STU]

Hhahhahha Norm - you get those headlights going in your lounge! The beam pattern won't matter and the LED's lack of UV (and IR) will reduce the incident of insect infestation!!!!
In all seriousness of course we have to keep experimenting and pushing the boundries - I am challenged to do this most days when designing lighting systems. LED's have advanced substantially in the last few years and there are an increasing number of high-end vehicles that are now (or will soon be) available with bespoke LED headlights. Very many vehicles are using LEDs elsewhere on the vehicle - including the rear light and indicators on my brothers new £1500 Taiwaneese scooter!
As I said I'm going to look into making an LED rear light system for my bike (retaining the period Lucas L525 lens), but I fear that we may be a little way off a retrofit H4 or H7 LED lamp with correct focal centre positioning.
Time will tell!

[Roeland]

Hi,

I fitted a LED back light, simular ast the Milner replica light sold by or hosts (although this does not seem to be LED) and the output is better that the standard light fitted.

Regards

Roeland

[Paul M H]

Look Here thats where I got mine
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm

[STU]

Thanks Roeland and Paul. I bought one of Norbsa Goffys LED 380 red/white stop/tail lamps but it was unsatisfactory in that the difference transition in intensity from tail to stop was too small - a common fault with these type of lamps. The Miller tailight unit wouldn't look right on my Electra XS but it contains Goffys 'LED Lightboard' which he sells separately.
A friend of mine has one on his Commando and again I wasn't convinced that it was up to the standard that I would want.
I can make something for myself a lower cost so will probably do so, using 12v LED strips in red and warm white.
However I must say that Halfords HD 380 stop/tail lamp is the best incandescent one that I have tried so far!

[Norm]

They arrived, complete waste of time, don't bother

[Mark M]

Norm, more please! Why no good and where did they come from?
REgards, Mark

[Norm]

Mark,
I got then from ebay in China, well made no problems but low beam is equilavent to a parker and high beam is bright but has no penetration, ok for around town with street lighting, no good in the country at night

[Mark M]

Thanks Norm. I'm not surprised though, I am a lighting engineer myself and as another specialist in this thread pointed out, the filament density and position within the reflector/lens pairing are absolutely critical to the efficiency of the beam spread. I had an early tungsten halogen conversion on my Bullet and as soon as I saw the bulb I knew it would be no good for this reason and it wasn't. The Lucas headlight lenses are actually very well made and still compare well with cheaper Jap stuff if only you can get a bright enough bulb. REgards, Mark