Forum

[PeteF]

Yes 6000 seems to long to me too for an air cooled engine when the oil is also lubricating the primary drive and clutch.
I change mine at 3000.
Oil is cheaper that engine overhauls.

[Boxerman]

I don't think 6000 kilometres / 3729 miles is an excessive mileage between oils changes, praps I'm just a tight ar*e

Frank

[Rattlebattle]

My oil changes are based on lapsed time (annual) as I don’t do a lot of miles, having more than one bike. I would caution changing the oil more than necessary on these bikes because the threads in the crankcase are not very robust and, even torquing the bolts correctly, will wear out prematurely. The oil in both my C5 and in my Triumph Thruxton discolours quite quickly despite being fully synthetic. I feel it’s just a feature of having one oil lubricate everything, so there’s tiny bits of clutch friction material, gears etc that discolour it. Having my C5 engine in bits it is obvious that there are some compartments in the crankcase where the oil never drains eg in the oil flinger. I recently changed the oil in my C5, didn’t run the engine and then decided to strip it ( long story). Did it come out clean? No, it had small streaks of black in it, presumably from where the oil stuck in various books and crannies mixed with the new stuff. When new you can get all sorts of bits on the gauze filter; RE fitters seem to like grey silicone quite a lot. It’s no wonder oilways can become blocked...

[PeteF]

Yes Rattlebattle, the sump plug threads are vulnerable which is why I have fitted a Dowty washer and wire locked the sump plug. Nothing like the torque required to seal it compared to a copper washer.

[Beezabryan]

This topic comes up regularly on this and other message boards.
Every time i read the Qs & As I ask myself would I buy a machine that has such a complex hit or miss method of checking oil level?
The answer each tine is no.

[Roobarb]

In all fairness, now that I know what I'm looking for I'm no longer stressed about the oil level monitoring. I feel the use of O rings is clearly something to be wary of although I'm now more concerned with the comments about the sturdiness of threads in the casings! I like PeteF's solution of Dowty washers...does anyone have any other advice in general to avoid any other obvious pitfalls.
Emma

[Rattlebattle]

Just about every modern bike I've owned in the last ten years has had a forum associated with it and in that forum there has been a thread or two about what oil to use and how to check the oil level. To not buy a particular bike just because (a) it has a sight glass, not a dipstick, (b) it has a dipstick not a sight glass, (c) the reading is taken cold, (d) the reading is taken hot seems to me to be denying oneself the opportunity to enjoy ownership of a great bike. One just has to learn what to do.
Yes, I ordered a pack of doughty washers too; odd that our host sells them. They really are useful. Really it just boils down to reading the owners manual or failing that finding a consistent way of measuring the level and not obsessing about it. These UCE models have many quirks and some weaknesses but generally they don't burn or leak oil. FWIW all I do is drain the oil as thoroughly as I can by leaning the bike on its main stand to the left and right to get as much out as I can. I then add a measured amount of oil as specified in the manual, start the engine, check for leaks then forget it until the next change is due. I know it looks like there's no oil in it if I park it on its side stand, but I don't panic and then overfill it - I've done the same for years on all my bikes that have wet sumps. Two things I would stress about the UCE models are not to use thread lock on the sump bolts as advised in the owner's manual - there's no need and it doesn't help the longevity of the threads - and if it leaks oil after it's been changed don't tighten the bolts beyond the specified torque or, guess what, you'll strip the thread and it may not stop the leak anyway.

[Daiwiskers]

I said to myself I'm not getting into this one

Doughy washers good idea or anealed copper

Thread loc not a good idea for any thread in aluminium use hylomar or other non setting sealant I don't use silicon and don't recommend it

A set of stubby spanners could come in handy for tightening anything that goes into aluminium (long spanners make it easier to undo things but also easier to overtighten them)

Hope this helps Dai

[windmill john]

Can someone please send me a link on our host’s to the Dowty washers that actually fit the 350 drain plugs. Bear in mind that last year I ordered a selection of each size for stock and the biggest would only be big enough for the drain plug on a 72nd scale model spitfire!



John

[windmill john]

Haggis, just checking, you said:

“To check the level the bike has to be on centre stand , level ground. Start the engine and let it tickover for 5 minutes. Switch off and leave it for another 5 mins for the oil to settle. Look at the window, that is your level. This is the only way to check correct level on Enfield.“


Wouldn’t that be the same as coming back from a run, bike onto main stand wait five minutes and check?


Re the Dowty washers, I just bought a bunch of the biggies.

John