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#98572
Yes everything is secure and in place. This morning I did another test, started up without the headlight on and run the first ten minutes without the headlight, naughty I know, but needs must. Anyway, no issues at all, engine ticking strongly, running perfectly never misses a beat. I'm now convinced something in the headlight circuit is at fault, probably a bad earth, so this is my next area to hunt down the fault, will look over the loom this weekend, I feel I'm getting closer to finding the fault, not giving up just yet...
#98596
NGK plug cap fitted today, I also took the chance to look over the loom, particularly around the headstock, under the tank to the fuse box, nothing really of concern no kinks or chaffing however I found this terminal loose, I cannot see where it would connect to? Seems odd to me o be floating around doing nothing, I'm going to go through the wiring diagram to check things out.
#98598
Under the tank above the efi body, looks like single connection, not a port. Also axls a note, the NGK plug is far superior in quality thatn the oem RE cap, copper core and just better fell to it, £3.75, cheap as chips.
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#98599
Yes, that connector is the ecu mil check wire. You earth it and then switch on the ignition, after the initial boot up, the mil will flash a series of long and short flashes to indicate any new or old fault codes.
As well as the crap oem plug cap the ht lead need put in the bin as well.
A nice bit of copper core lead is cheap enough and screws into the coil the same as the cap.
#98600
Cheers, I wasn't sure about the ht lead, thought it was integrated into the coil, anyway new ht lead copper core ordered. I really want to persist with the bike, I get so many admirers, people pass and say 'nice bike' I smile say thanks, then under my breath I'm saying 'ts a bag of nails...' not many central London gt535s used as a daily ride, I've just got to get to the bottom of this, as a thought would a LED headlight bulb lower the voltage or is that asking for more trouble?
#98601
I've been trying to keep out of this one
But I would check the voltage across the battery
Ignition off
Ignition on
Motor running lights off
Motor running lights on
This will give you a clue if it's a charging problem or battery problem it could be an earth problem check between battery and frame also battery and motor then frame to motor
It's a lot of testing but all easy enough with a cheap multi meter

Just about the last thing I would do would be to fit a LED headlight bulb a good one will cost big time and if it works it will be covering a underlying problem

Changing HT cap and lead is a job well worth doing don't forget the rubber seals some silicone grease won't go amiss on all electrical connections

Hope this helps Dai
#98602
Appreciate all the comments and advice, I had a feeling the LED was a bad idea. I've been spraying wd40 on all electrical connections and there is a definite improvement. I'm going to do the lead and cap, try the testing across the battery. But visually I can't see anything obvious, I'm mean it's not the most complex of bikes, and fairly easy to get to things, so I was hoping to see something glaring. One last thing to mention, when the headlight is on, sometimes without the bike cutting out the red battery light comes on, I'll rev up a touch for a few seconds and it goes off, it's like there's to much drain on the battery with the headlight on, spin up the alternator and it goes off again, could the bulb be wrong for the bike, does seem very bright when on.
#98603
They use normal H4 12v 55/60w headlight bulbs.
Oem battery is rubbish and fail very quickly.
Wires too and from the battery are prone to fracture due to vibes plus small earth wire for ecu can break under the shrink wrap at the negative terminal.
R/R are not the most robust .
You really need to check the voltage as Diawiskers says.

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