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[Matt]

So having rebuilt my gearbox (a new layshaft fitted due to worn dogs.) And solved my clutch dilema everything is now back together.


I went for a test ride. Runs great, really happy except


The bike still occasionally spits out second gear!?!?

It's 90% better than it was, which is really pleasing but unless you're REALLY direct and change gear like a man and then hold it in for the first few seconds it can jump out. Once I've held it in for a few seconds I can then let go and enjoy second gear like you would expect.



So is my problem worn dogs inside the second gear cog perhaps?!?! They looked fine. Here's a picture:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v292/ ... 050002.jpg


Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.


 

[Alan R]

Hello again young Matt----------------sorry to see you back with us in these circumstances. Now i'm trying not to be clever "after the event",  and haven't re-read all your old posts just yet but did you not buy a new matching gear to go with the new shaft ?? They were designed to work together so if one has failed it's proper to change the pair. 

[Matt]

I did not buy a new gear, I just bought the layshaft.

The gear looked fine to me. There's a picture of it using the link i my first post.

[neddy]

Not sure what you are talking about, but is it that a "gear" has to match upto a "shaft", would like to know why ?

[Matt]

Yes Neddy. All the gears in the gear box are all always engaged, it's the shaft that changes which gear it is located onto. 


The shaft does this with mechanisms called dog clutches which are clutches that are either engaed or not engaged, there's no slip. In this case it's pegs in holes so to speak. The dog pegs on my shaft were heavily worn so they would slip out of the coresponding holes on the inside of the gear cog.


Since replacing the shaft my problem has improoved drastically but not 100% so I guess I'm on the right track.



I just hope that there's some other solution to spending another £35ish on a cog and stripping the whole box down again. Anyone?


 

[Gwilly]

Hi matt, its difficult to tell from the photo the extent of wear inside the 2nd gear pinion. only you can tell as you had it in your hands to run a finger nail over. If edges where not broken or badly rounded then should be servicable. 19 tooth pinion = £38 squids + tax/post, so i see your dilema. Can i suggest put the box into false neutral between 3rd and 4th gear and remove gosa/detent plunger, in this position will allow chisel point to turn without damage. COUNT THE TURNS made before release so you know were you are on reassembly. Just check the chisel point and spring operation. redress with a file but not too sharp. If looks damaged a new one is £4.50 not too bad. reassemble and count turns in. count in one full turn more than you started with and lock up the nut. make sure screwdriver slot is horizontal. Spin the back wheel and select gears, if alls well give it a run down the road. gwilly

[Alan R]

Who let the dogs out ?----who, who ---who ????

[Matt]

I've had no joy playing with the detent which appears to be in great condition.

I'm going to bite the bullet (excuse the pun) and replace the second gear cog.


Thanks again for your help. 

[Alan R]

Hi Matt----OK matey, brave call but we're all right behind you-----quite a long way as it happens (LoL ). As before--calm, methodical and this time you know what to expect so no nasty surprises then ?? Don't forget that washer on the re-build !!  Good luck---keep us posted.

[Gwilly]

 More thoughts matt, Did you fit a new clutch centre? just recheck the
adjustment now youve been out for a run. nothing makes an albion 4 speed
short change more than a draggin clutch. sit on the bike on level
ground and with the engine running snick(graunch) into 1st gear.With the
clutch lever touching the bars can you paddle the bike backwards with
your feet. If its a struggle then clutch needs a little adjustment. This
is what i do, you may know, but someone else may find this useful. Back
off the mid cable adjuster completely. undo the locknut on the gearbox
end adjuster and back out the screw as far as possible without dropping
it into the void between covers. a u shaped piece of cardboard placed
under the screw will prevent swearing. Now screw carefully back in bit
at a time till you feel it make contact with pushrod. tighten lock nut
at this point. Some might say back off quarter turn which is ok on
triumph/bsa box but enfield end cover is too flexible unmodified to
allow any slack. Now pull the clutch lever back to the bars and watch as
you take up the slack with the mid cable adjuster,(also the lever
adjuster if fitted) and watch carefully as the lever is drawn forward to
touch the stop. At this point check that the outer cable ferrules are
located in their respective recesses. Now give the adjuster another full
turn to preload the clutch just a tad. Now do the paddle test again. if
working ok give the bike a run untill warmed up. if clutch slip is felt
under acceleration then slacken back the adjuster half turn. Other
opinions may vary but its the best you will get untill you swap out and
fit the five plate conversion. Even then i found the three std and three
stronger spring combo just too much for the end case. clutch would not
slip but would drag me out into the traffic flow. 6 std springs have now
fixed the problem. light clutch with 20% more friction area. I seem to
be rambling on, sorry but its piddling down outside.