Forum

[Bettsy]

Hi, can anyone give me CLEAR instructions for removing and replacing the dynamo unit on the Meteor, with distributor drive? Could Mark Mumford please contact me - you seem to be the 'Guru' of the Meteor! - to chat about the model. 01691662587, thanks, Tony.

[Creaky45]

Not sure if I can help but obviously you have a 700 Twin Meteor as I now do and I also wanted to remove the dynamo and distributor as I thought its rough running could be caused by something adrift in the dizzy. On removing the timing cover there are three screw that hold it in but obviously you know that already. On removing them I found it stuck firm, by the gasket I suppose so I went no further. Sorry I can't help but maybe you could help me. The chain driving the dynamo is loose as a goose and I thought this could affect timing. Is yours the same? There seems no way to fix this other than replace the chain. What country is that phone number?

[Bettsy]

Thanks for the response. Have you undone the dynamo clamp bracket which goes around the body case? I believe the chain has to be replaced if worn. I have not yet got inside the timing cover - wanted to check everything first to make sure nothing went 'boing' when I removed it! Phone number is UK. Tony

[Mark M]

Tony I will call you tonight. (busy painting a 350 New Bullet frame and sorting some wheels to go the wheelbuilder!)

REgards, Mark

[Colin F]

I know this is an older post and probably resolved now,the Meteor dynamo chain is adjustable,
(earlier 500 Twin was not)there are slots provided but not a lot.There's also a stud and nut
under the dynamo that has to be loosened to allow the the cradle to move also.Best to get a
new chain firstly as you'l never get proper timing with a loose chain
cheers
colin

[Creaky45]

Colin,you may be able to help me. Sorry to hijack your post Tony. I have a Meteor 700 1954 and the chain is quite loose. It is a single chain and Tony thought it was supposed to be duplex. My bike has a generator and distributor and it runs very badly at low throttle. I have spent ages with carbys and mixture and timing etc but the missing definitely sounds electrical. However it accelerates fine. The points, plugs and leads are all new. Have not changed the coil yet but it bench tests ok. You say the chain is adjustable. Are you sure? I have removed the 3 holding screws and, while the holes are bigger than the screws I would not call it a slot. Any help appreciated.

[Mark M]

I suggest replacing the rotor arm. Get a correct spec quality replacement from The Distributor Doctor. This fixed very similar problems with mine after I'd tried just about everything else. I have suggested this to several owners with dodgy distributors but some of them persist in thinking there can't be anything wrong with the 60 year old rotor arm they've already got!

REgards, Mark

[Creaky45]

Thanks Mark, I have tried a couple of rotors. The 52 which was on the distributor looked a bit dodgy but there were 2 more in the spares, second hand and a bit shorter but the bike runs the same with any of them. Could be the coil but I don't think so.

[Mark M]

It's the internal condition of the rotor that makes it faulty as well as it's (possibly) being the wrong application for the job. If you read The Distributor Doctor's site as I suggested, he explains why.

REgards, Mark

[Creaky45]

Mark, I'm almost 100% sure you're right. I just connected my 1000 volt megger between the centre wire of the cap after disconnecting it from the coil to earth and sure enough there is conduction there on all my 3 rotors. I just have to source one now. I will try locally first as I don't want to wait a few weeks for an overseas delivery. I read all the stuff from the Dist Doctor thanks.