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[Matt62]

Greetings from Finland

Bike: 2010 EFI Bullet. 22.000km

Lately, I've found that when I turn the key it slightly oversteps the mark and disengages all the electrics.

Imagine, if you will, turning the key to 10-minutes-past. That is the normal position which switches on all the lights and starter unit.
The key will now turn to about 12-minutes-past and knocks everything out.
I then have to turn it back slightly to find the 10-past sweet spot in order to start the bike.

The nut holding the barrel on the headlamp casket is tight and the visible surface of the barrel does not seem to be loose either.

The engine conked out on me the other day mid trip and was due to the key having too far turned. Luckily it happened waiting at traffic lights and not moving on a busy road.

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Kind regards
Matt

[papasmurf]

New ignition switch?

[Alan R]

Hi Guys----PAPASMURF, you could well be right...MATT62, generally speaking the simpler forms of ignition switch consist of a barrel that sits in the main body....There is a slotted cap on top for the key to be guided go into..There is usualy a number stamped on this cap,..plus a rotary electrical switch attached underneath.. It's this rotary electrical switch that your ignition circuits etc. all flow through when in the "ON" position....
Within the barrel are lots of tiny, spring-loaded metal "Fingers" ( Tynes or Tines) of differing lengths..... Normally some of these are standing higher (proud) of the barrel surface when a key is NOT fitted and they prevent the barrel from turning as they have engaged into slots within the inner surface of the hole in the main body......When a key of a matching number to that stamped on the cap is inserted, the unique saw-tooth pattern on that key engages with all the tines such that ALL the tines are withdrawn and thus allow the barrel --- along with the ignition switch as well to be rotated until a detent plunger or spring -loaded ball comes into play and holds the whole assembly at the "IGN ON" position.......It's this detent action that appears to have been weakened and allowed the whole assembly to move past the "IGN ON" position and into a no current position.
>You may have to change the whole lot ---Keys and all OR you might be able to just change the switch at the bottom of the barrel...
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[Tim NZ]

Failed ignition switches are common, both the switch contact face or the tumbler assembly give problems. Replacement is the only effective long term remedy, and many owners resort to replacing the entire lock-set to maintain a One-key bike.


Me? I encountered too many failed ign switches, so I keep a spare wiring block connector to bypass the switch and plug into the wiring loom; end of problem.

[Alan R]

Incidentally---- should you lose your one and only key BUT have another of the same pattern with a different number on then fear not !!---- you can adapt the new key to work the old barrel...........Remove the barrel and place the new key into the barrel........Some of the tines will be sticking out.........Go to your grinding wheel and CAREFULLY remove those protrusions...... Replace the barrel and secure it...Place the new key into the body and rotate !!----- Voilà !!

[Alan R]

Sorry---- I forgot to add that overall I'd agree with TIM and buy a new assy...It's just a unit re-placement then with less hassle etc...However some bikes ign. key also fits the tool box locks as well so my tip just previous might be handy ??