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By Gwilly
#67511
Just as long as your not running too lean at higher rpm wide open throttle..

Ball park can be obtained with plug chops and general feel in the saddle but i think for serious tuning a half hour session on a DYNO with printout copy will provide evidence of what is going on across the full range..

Repeatable and comparable after adjustments, not sure if i could trust or even remember sets of LED's at 70mph.
By Rattlebattle
#67514
You may well be right ShaggyDA; it's not something I've studied. It's only a cheap marrow band sensor on an RE EFI and a pretty crude system, certainly compared to modern cars. I'd tune the carb empirically in the time-honoured fashion (or use/borrow a colourtune - not carbtune as I said earlier. Good enough I would have thought.
By Creaky45
#67521
You're right Shaggy. I got that backwards. I might try hooking up the heater wires and see if I get a different reading. Will let you know.
By Creaky45
#67523
I am finally getting somewhere. The type of sensor I am using comes out of a car and has 4 wires which means the 2 for the heater MUST be used. It does not get hot enough to function correctly with just the exhaust gasses. I connected the heater which is about 3 ohms and draws around 1 amp at first then drops to .7 amp after a few minutes. This made all the difference and now the leds show I am actually almost correct with the mixture at all throttle openings. From a cold engine it takes at least 5 minutes of running before I get the correct readings. It is quite sensitive in that I can turn the idle mixture screw just a 1/4 of a turn and see a change on the gauge. I am told you can get a single wire sensor which would no doubt be calibrated in a different way so as not to need that extra heat.

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