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[brokeLad]

My attempt at Arcing as in P.Snidal manual

[p]

Go for "nearest" parallel position. Then the main thing is to get both shoes contacting at the same time....I slacken off link rod (modified as recommended) then bungee brake lever to apply bottom lever, then apply "top" brake shoe lever firmly with aid of spanner for leverage- not on nut as it will undo - then with my third hand (!) take all slack from rod whilst avoiding pre-tensioning it, this should compensate for uneven wear, works for me....

[ric]

Only the edge of the shoes are making contact with the drum. Until that has been rectified you will always suffer with a spongy brake and greatly reduced efficiency.

I had a similar problem with my rear brake but managed to reduce the original brake pedal downward travel from a very spongy 50mm to a nice solid 5mm.

[brokeLad]

How did you do it? Sanding the pad down?

[Beezabryan]

How broke are you brokeLad that you are not starting with a good set of relined shoes?

[brokeLad]

Ha, not that broke! but there seems to be a lot of meat left on the pads and I think its set up not the wear that is my problem.

[jefrs]

Ring spanners - you can extend the length of a ring spanner by locking the ring of another spanner into the open end of the first. Alternatively you can user a socket and long 'breaker bar' or a handy extending socket wrench bar for removing car wheel nuts. Leverage.

Bashing a nut with hammer and cold chisel works but with some risk not only to deforming the nut but also damaging a bearing.

It's funny how terms change, a box spanner now means a tubular spanner (cheap as chips, very useful but not very strong). Back in the day a box spanner was one of these things for a bicycle.


http://images.evanscycles.com/product_i ... panner.jpg

[jefrs]

You don't have rivets so they're not worn out but they are glazed. They can be sanded but there is a risk of getting grit embedded in the linings. If they're indian linings don't mess about but change them for good'uns. Do not cut cost on brakes

[jefrs]

The tubular spanner is thinner and usually gets into recesses but the tommy bar tends to be made of bendy cheese. One can usually find a socket to fit the other end, or a ring spanner.

[jefrs]

Heat can make a nut expand - electric paint stripper on low setting or rag with a kettle of boiling water. May melt grease in a bearing. Penetrating oil. Trying to tighten the nut often cracks whatever has decided to seize it on.