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[Chris [Stockport]]

The picture shows, working from the inside outwards, the spindle, the metal collar and then the rubber. Then, of course, once assembled is the brake-backplate and finally a 1" nut, screwed to the spindle, to hold the backplate on.

I have tried but failed to understand how the metal collar can be happy!

On its inside, it bears against more metal, which turns as the wheel does. (Can't be seen in the photo, as the collar is in place.) But what we can see of it, is the edge that goes against the brake backplate. This (hopefully!!!) doesn't turn. And it's tightened against the collar with the 1" nut.
So, WHY DOESN'T tHE COLLAR JUST GET WORN AWAY? I am mystified! Obviously the brake plate has to be tightened sufficiently with the 1" nut, so it doesn't come undone..... What am I missing?

Any explanation gratefully received, Thanks, Chris

[Tim NZ]

Large dia faces out.

[Tim NZ]

Oops, the second line went MIA?


The collar is secured up against the inner race of the wheel bearing, which is attached to the axle, which is not spinning.

[Chris [Stockport]]

VERY HELPFUL. GREAT ! I have just held the other end of the spindle in a (soft jaw!) vice and removed the collar. The inner race did spin, not as you said, but I then pressed it firmly and it DID NOT spin... AS YOU SAID ! : ) Happy.

So, next question is: When I put it all back together, brake plate and the 1" screw, it's harder to turn the spindle. Is this normal or is something going to get worn? Obviously, the 1" nut has to be tight enough not to come undone and the brake plate would wobble?

Thanks again... I'm already half way there as a result of your previous answer.

By the way, this particular collar doesn't have a large or small diameter; to put it crudely, it looks like it has been cut from a piece of pipe. It hasn't, of course, it's got nicely chamfered edges etc. Maybe just a different year or something.

[Chris [Stockport]]

Sorry, I meant the same 1" nut, not another screw.

[Tim NZ]

The nut does not need to be done up GRUNT tight; snug is adequate. When the wheel is refitted to the forks, the nut (wheel) should be so positioned that it abuts hard against the fork leg, thus preventing the nut from backing off.


IF the bearing inner race is spinning on the axle, replace the bearing, degrease the axle and refit a NEW sealed bearing to the axle and retain the inner race to the axle with a drop of loctite.


If there is any friction between the brake plate and the drum, something is awry.


May be the 'stepped' spacer is worn or damaged? May be the inner bearing is seating too far up the axle? May be the brake plate is warped/buckled? Closer inspection is needed. And then there is the 'matter' of correct brake shoe and brake rod alignment...


In messages of a few months back there is a detailed instruction on how to CORRECTLY set up the 2LS brake levers as a True Parallelogram.
Any variation (misalignment) from True and Square sees a rapid diminishing of braking efficiency! (And potentially warped brake plate)


If you contact me off list I can send you the Doc? royalenfield AT clear DOT net DOT nz

[Cleggy]

Hi Chris. If your spindle turns nicely before you tighten the big nut up on the brakeplate, then is stiff/stiffer when you have done the big nut up, it is pre-loading the inner races. Standard cure is to assemble all then clonk the spindle, either or both ends, with a mallet. This should seat the bearings squarely & all should turn nicely after. As Tim says though, inner races should not turn freely on the spindle, so best lock them up as advised. TTFN Jack

[Chris [Stockport]]

Still not had a chance to do it all, but I just want to say THANKS FOR THE QUICK AND HELPFUL REPLIES. Chris