Forum

[Beezabryan]

Exile one does as Peter advocates thus one gets most of the oil from the timing case. One always has a little left inside but that is of no consequence if one does regular oil changes. As for how one understands the Bullet lubrication system one has merely to look at an owners handbook or a workshop manual. If one has neither then one is in the dark where one has no idea how to or when to do any preventative maintenance. However if one has neither of those essential publications one has only to look at the Technical notes that one will find to left of this page but if one needs help one may try this link - http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pi ... cation.pdf

[Exile]

@ Pete & Bryan,


Many thanks both of you. I think I have a slightly better understanding of it now..


Just one more question, if I may.. I have heard of those who never entirely change the oil. Constantly topping up with new oil is enough. Does this work?

[Norm]

It was explained to me many years ago by our resident Club engineer who has been involved in the oil industry all his life as to why not to use 90 oil in the gearbox and use engine oil and it had nothing to do with the bushes but each to their own I guess after all the Indians shoved that awful grease stuff in their boxes because they couldn't work out how to stop them leaking but at the end of the day each to their own, any oil is better than no oil

[Leon Novello]

Grease works perfectly well in the gearbox, lots of gearboxes use it, Shell Alvania EP2 (Extreme Pressure) is an excellent gearbox grease similar to the factory grease. Another good substitute lubricant for those who don`t like the effort needed for cleaning grease out of the box if repairs are necessary is 85 /140 gear oil which is about the same consistancy as a mixture of engine oil and grease, and you don`t have to worry about the percentage of oil to grease when mixing the pudding.

[Bullet Whisperer]

For my 'classic' type Bullets, I put Morris's 20/50 in the engine, clutch and gearbox and it has given me no trouble to date. After all, why shell out on three different types of oil, when one type will do the job just fine? When I change the oil, I usually remove the timing cover, so it will get drained of any residue, it is a bit more work, but it gives me a chance to check the oil pump drive gears. It also means I can fit a new filter, tip the cover so the open end of the filter is facing upwards and I can fill it with clean oil before putting the cover back on. I also remove the quill bolt and force some clean oil from a squirty oil can into the big end before starting up after an oil change.