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[hubb]

Once I had got home I found the reason the bike[07 350 classic]had broken down was a blown fuse caused by the wiring to the rear lights coming out of a clip in the mudguard and rubbing through on the tyre and shorting out. The odd thing was though that when the bike had first stopped I could get it to run at a rough idle but it would die on opening the throttle.For some reason I tried turning on the lights which strangely made the engine run almost normally -well enough to get me home anyway. I can't imagine why this worked,can anyone explain ? electricity is not my strong point. Many thanks

[Frank]

I suspect the earth wiring was damaged to the rear light and it was easier for the current to flow via the ignition coil hence rough running but with the lights on it was easier to rob another earth hence better running. Something like that. Earth faults do very strange things.

[hubb]

Thanks Frank, yes the wiring was a complete mess with one wire completely detached and the others worn half way through.With the fuse gone the battery is disconnected so it was running just off the alternator and the electricity must have been trying all sorts of different routes.Baffling,but I was grateful it got me home.
Loom now repaired and spare fuses carried. Thanks again.

[Gwilly]

Well Hubb thats just amazing how it managed to keep running at all.. I think we should all spend 2mins sunday morning checking that loom under the guard..

There have been more than a few Electras and efi's that have had this problem as well. Either caught on the tyre over bumps or cut where the cable exists the guard and travels upward.. Really is a poor design. Glad you got home ok...

[hubb]

Thanks Gwilly, another thing I found when I had fixed the wiring was the brake light was permanently lit- turned out to be the tiny plunger on the front brake light switch had either worn or broken short so wasn't being compressed when the lever was released thus leaving the brake light on. I don't know how long I've been riding with no warning of slowing down to those behind so must check these basics before setting off in future. I might live a bit long longer, Cheers

[Norm]

I have found the best way to fix the front brake switch problem is to JB Weld a small piece of plastic onto the lever about 1mm thick so that it touches the switch earlier. Otherwise you can replace the switch every 6 months as it wears a little as there is only 1mm between a switch that stays on and one that doesn't

[Alan R]

Hi guys------- yes, I had a similar problem last year..Fortunately I was able to remove the complete body from the brake lever assy ---the switch body then fell apart--- I filed off some plastic such that the plunger came forward a little, and re-built and fitted it back..........If your body is still intact then I would give NORM's idea a go............

[hubb]

Hi Alan, the switch is such a flimsy thing it's hard to get it out of the lever without damaging it so,at a fiver a pop, I'll order a couple and replace as necessary but will do Norms modification.Thanks. Sorry to hear about your cat but trust you and your good lady are well- Rose sends her regards. John

[Alan R]

Hi guys----------- yes, shame about dear old Puss-Puss (the brave)..She was a young stray that used to sleep in the Jungle that I call a front garden...Then decided to adopt me, as they do--- and that was about 6 very happy years ago....She liked all the bikers that call here but hissed and spat at 'er indoors and the Post-lady as well..I placed her in a favoured "Sunny-Spot" last Tuesday morning...The house is so quiet now....My Honda bikes have a very similar switch on the front brakes and they can give trouble from Time-to-Time, but a £5 is cheap enough as you say.........Thanks v. much for the for the regards..Cheers !!