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[Tord]

Hi,
My Bullet -93 suddenly stopped when driving at normal traffic speed. At the same time the ammeter jumped to full negative reading. When turning on the ignition for a restart attempt the ammeter reading went to full negative reading again. Having been picked up and towed home I dismantled most of the bike to look for any physical problem with wiring etc. Found nothing wrong. Disconnected the Boyer unit (digital type) to eleminate that source of error. Disconnected the power box (delivered by our host) without any result. Having put the system back together again a new symtom arrose, no negative ammeter reading when turning on the ignition, but when at the same time switching on the head light there was an almost full negative reading again on the ammeter, but just for a couple of seconds then there was a clic sound and the ammeter reading went normal for the head light consumption. Without dismantling the bike again it is difficult to detect wherefrom the clic sound emmanate. Could be the power box or the Boyer unit. They are mounted close to each other. I would be surprised if it is the Boyer unit (which has worked perfectly for a couple years) because the mysterious ammeter reading appers only with the light switch is on.
Sorry for this lengthy description, but I hope that anyone of you out there could come up with a qualified guess or suggestion to what the problem might be.
/Tord

[jaffa90]

What is the battery voltage reading?

[Alan R]

Hi guys------- OK TORD, the full deflection to negative indicates a short circuit........It seems from your description that you may have a faulty ignition switch OR a faulty light switch... The ignition switches have been known to "self-dismantle" in service...If you re-read your post with that in mind it seems to fit the bill..........Did the main fuse blow ?? Do you have that elusive Second Fuse fitted as well ?? -- best to have a check.

[Tord]

Hi,
Thank you guys for your comments. The only fuse didn´t blow. There is not a direct short circuiting, because the ohmmeter indicates that a resistance of a few ohms is still there. The battery voltage is o.k. The ignition switch seems sound with a distinct feeling. The light switch on the other hand seems less reliabe, not least the wiring connections. The mounting of the switch makes difficult check it out. If there would be poor contacts or circuiting tendencies in the switches I think there would be different results at my many test switchings. Still I suspect a faulty Boyer unit or power box. May be I have to replace one of them and hope for the problem being gone.

[Norm]

One thing to check is the battery to frame earth connection, even though it doesn't sound like the cause it does do some bizare things with electronic components like the power box and ignition. Always a good starting point with any electrical problem.