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[trev55555]

Hi all.
I have very limited engineering knowledge ( a few oil changes a few years ago, so was wondering if you people might be able to help me in the above task.
Having very recently purchased a 1997, 500 bullet (classic, i think:) that has been retro fitted with bits and pieces, i thought it would be a good idea to refit the decompressor system ( lever and cable ),after having bought and read the workshop manual leaving me none the wiser in regards to the refit, my question is....-
Is it just a case of removing what "appears" to be some sort of "blanking" screw and inserting the ball ended cable...... then attaching the lever to the handle bars .....then attaching the other end of the cable to the new lever...?

ps... 1st reason for doing this refit is the bike has a "amal" carb with no choke, so should in theory make starting easier !!??
2nd i thought the bike could do with some sort of "kill switch" should the throttle get stuck !!??
pps... does anyone think my reasons are justified ?

Thanks in advance to anyone replying to this post

trev

[Alan R]

Hello TREV--- OK--let's give this one a go, shall we ??---First, which size engine do you have ie 350/500 ?? Next, I'd be inclined to get the choke system fitted back into your AMAL carb ( again, what type, size etc ? ) because for cold starting you are going to need a rich mixture supply which at the moment can't be done (other than blanking the air inlet for a while OR a lot of "tickle")--Do you actually have a De-compressor unit as such to put back in ???...........Yes, that's a blanking plug arrangement that's currently in there and it's NOT part of the de-compressor at all...For a "KILL" switch you could break into the L/T wire from the H/T coil to the CB points (Black/White markings) and insert a handlebar-mounted on/off switch BUT, your ignition key does this anyway...Recently someone posted a design for a decompressor valve with a finger-operated top mount---- that would save on the cable, lever assy ???---- If you are running a standard compression ratio piston the you really don't need the decomp. valve to move the piston over TDC when starting BUT the previous owner may well have put something "sporty" in there so best to establish just what you do have ?? Hope that helps ??----------Do it soon though as the Sun is coming out to play !!

[Riggers]

Hi Trev - I would agree with Alan regarding not needing the decompressor anyway. If you can happily swing the motor over the compression stroke (try it with the ignition switched off) then I'd leave well alone. If your motor is standard it will only have a 6.5 to one compression ratio anyway. To stop the engine simply switch off the ignition, or it may already have an isolator switch as part of the right hand switch gear. Keep it simple - less to go wrong.

[Alan R]

just like ME !!

[Norm]

Fit a decomp, makes starting much easier

[Beezabryan]

And avoids that hurtful kick back, says one who had a blackened foot & ankle one time.........only 6.5:1 it may be but it can and does hurt

[Gwilly]

Fors and against i suppose but i have to say i always stop mine with the decomp a fraction before the kill switch. Just stops the motor pushing backward when theres not enough momemtum to overcome compression.
Maybe thats why my spag clutch is still in one piece after eleven years. Doh thats dunnit. gwilly.

[trev55555]

First off thanks to all who replied.
@ Allan R, Seem that i have one of those hand operated modifications on the bike allready ( what a dork iam for not noticing, wasnt till i started the job of reinstalling cable and lever did i on very close inspection reallise that the mod' had been done. Dont suppose u remmember who it was who posted a item on the mod' ?

[Alan R]

---------- Here's the one I had in mind}--------Decomp mod.
Started at 10:01am on the 2nd February, 2013 by PeteF
PeteF Subject: Decomp mod.
I came to start to Bullet the other day and - no compression. It didn't take long to find the problem as the decomp cable was sticky and was holding the valve just off the seat. Having got the cable off to lubricate it I got to thinking (dangerous I know) "Do I really need a cable operated decomp" I decided "No, not really" So I did this;

It's now quite easy to reach down to operate the decomp. by pressing down on the knob. That's one less cable to worry about and a bit less clutter round the 'bars. The spanner flats are for taking the knob off so a box spanner will fit over the whole lot (much easier than before) The knob is one I had in the bit-box and I'll look out for a more suitable one. Somewhere I've seen one with a nice concave top which might look better.