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[Barry N]

Alan and Mick - of course, I meant the ammeter needle flicks to centre when the points are OPENED!! (Silly a*se!).
So considering this, and the fact that the coil doesn't get hot when the fault occurs - might this sugest that the coil is not the culprit? Either way I should find out when I change the condenser!

[Barry N]

To add to previous post - discharge is about two-thirds of a segment on the ammeter, when the points are closed - same as always if that helps. (Yes, its a pity we cant edit our posts!).

[Les H]

Hi Barry. The problem could be just an intermittent loss of power to the coil, caused by a bad contact anywhere on the wiring route from the Battery to the ammeter..to switch...to coil. It might be worth a clean up of all the spade connections and check the ignition switch as this is a strong possiblity....However the best way is to check first by overiding the normal wiring... So get a small toggle switch (Not absolutely necessary but better if you have one)) and hard wire the battery positive via the new switch directly to the SW terminal of the coil and ride the bike. Note: with the new switch in on the hard wiring, you can have it switched off so you can do your normal start routine and then switch it on before you ride off. If the problem disappears then you will know it is not the coil or condensor and most likely a connection fault.

[Les H]

Correction: "Note: If you have a switch feeding the hard wired coil, you can have it switched off to allow you to do your normal start routine and then switch it on before you ride off".

[Barry N]

Good idea Les - and thanks all! I'll keep you informed of the outcome in due course.