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[PeteF]

The trick with setting up both types is to get a little tension on the axle, then position the adjusters before putting a bit more tension on, then checking everything is correct before tightening up. A soft mallet is useful to take up any slack and make sure the cams are seated properly while on partial tension. The great beauty of the snail cams is that once set up correctly with string/wood and marked accordingly, the allignment never need checking again, just move them on one notch as required. With the new adjusters, if you loose track of counting the nut flats, you're back to square one. If the notches don't give the absolute correct chain tension just leave it on the slack side. My first M/C, a DWM, had snail cams and I've looked in vain for them on bikes till I got the RE. Sorry - just realised this is a bit of a highjack Paul.

[Les H]

Hi BikerBill. That's a yours truly design....Did you make one for yourself?....if you did I hope you find it was worth the effort...I still use my one, and once fitted I find it extremely telling on alignment.....Never got any feedback at all from Real Classic, so many thanks for mentioning it.....ATB....Les

[bikerbill]

Hi Les,

So you're the inventor. Nice one. Yes I did make one and yes it works a treat. It has to be twiddled a bit on the Enfield to get a slight downhill angle to get the beams past the centre stand, but it really is an absolutely spot-on way to get the wheels truly aligned. I never got on with the string method.
Those little lasers were dirt cheap on Ebay - not much cop for their intended use to be honest, but fine for this job.

Apart from a wasted afternoon arsing about with the Hitchcocks adjusters before replacing the snails, I only ever did it the once. As Pete says, you can't "lose track" when adjusting the chain by notches. They're not so precise, but they don't have to be. Better a bit on the loose side. And check the tension OFF the centre stand with someone on the bike - there's quite a difference! I check it with bike on side stand, sitting on the bike and leaning over.

[Les H]

Many thanks Bill. It really pleases me someone has found it useful. As mentioned in the article, it is initially a touch fiddly to get the right position, but once used it's ok and practice makes perfect. Once on the bike, you are free to adjust at leisure and having a line each side of the front tyre allows spot on adjustment, especially with threaded adjusters and you can monitor the movement in "real time" rather than set up strings or get up and hold a plank. Yes, you have to angle it downwards but it clears most bikes centre stands like that. Thanks again...your feedback is the first I've got in 3 years....much obliged....take care...Les.

[Riggers]

Hey Les - I've just read your article and I'm a convert! I'm gonna have a go and make one too. What a neat, simple and easy way to solve the problem. I agree with you that with the threaded adjusters it'll be possible to get near 100% accuracy. They say the best ideas are always the simplest - well done mate!

[Les H]

Hi Riggers, I've just checked that you can still get the lasers, and you can: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-EDGE-ST ... ......this is just one supplier but there are others and cheaper from Hong Kong...takes a few weeks to arrive though......Just one tip don't leave the lasers in a damp garage over winter, the switch contacts corrode and they are nearly impossible to get them to switch on again. This happened to my one, but after about a thousand switches on and off they started to work again. Oh yes its worth enlarging the fixing holes just a touch so you can align the laser with the extra free movement then tighten up the screws. Once you've made it, you can charge your friends to line up their wheels...LOL...good luck.

[Riggers]

Tips all received and understood! Don't know when I'll get round to 'Project Straight Line' though - at the moment new skirting boards are taking priority! Cheers mate.

[scotty]

Hi i took the snail cams off the bike clamped them together so they match and deepened the grooves with a round chainsaw file then centre punched them all at the bottom of the grooves. this helps alot as the cams locate much better on the peg.