- Fri Jun 29, 2012 10:23 pm
#14174
Hi Guys------- GRAHAM 43 }---I changed my std. fork springs from a Bullet 65 a few years ago for some HAGON progressives and on my Classic 500 for our hosts ones( softer) last Autumn. From my 1/2" drive socket set I used the 13mm A/F Hex.double-depth tool. ( Snap-On No.SA 16A )and, once started--the addition of a 1/2" drive, 6" extension. You don't need the "Special tool, sir" ). REMEMBER that you will be trying to UNSCREW a R/H thread from on top of the casquette so it's a CLOCKWISE motion that's needed. Also, they are in B.F.--TIGHT !!!!! As Professional Engineers we never, ever BODGE things. Good grief no---just "re-allocate existing resources" as it were. With that in mind }---if you can get hold of the valve port spanner I would strongly recommend it.----see HMC's tech notes on changing springs---- However, failing that we can utilise a 6" bench vice, a small Vee-block,( to give a 3-point contact around the circular shape), a lump hammer and a parallel drift.From here you can make up your own ideas---just remember to trim any burrs with a fine-cut file and clean all items before assembly. ( in my day that was at 09.00hrs.). Be careful when re-building that you don't damage the fork seal. Lubricate the stanchions beforehand as well. HOT TIP---- When attempting to re-screw the legs back into the top, make sure the lower yoke clamps are well & truly SLACK, otherwise the legs get slightly defected and there's a real chance of starting a cross-thread. Then you'll be "Cross" as well. I use an appropiate, steel tapered wedge with the aid of a dynamic-impact device ( heavy-duty, flat-bladed screwdriver and lump hammer. ). See, now that's not bodging !! Have a nice day !!!!
