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By Les H
#12332
Just a couple of extra thoughts. If your engine is fitted with a roller bearing big-end, I would choose straight non multigrade oil. Mr H sells Chatsworth (30 & 40 grade) or even Hardwick (50) for summer use with a tuned or large capacity conversion. My thoughts are that the roller big end is the most stressed bearing in the engine where roller have enormous pressures and are prone to skidding during their rotation. Multigrade can suffer molecular shearing (viscosity is reduced) so if the oil does not contain these viscosity improvers then they don't break down. With the roller bearings "open" construction excessive oil pressure is also less likely when the engine has no relief valve fitted, but the correct grade should be chosen to match the ambient air temperature (Winter Summer grades) and gentle use must be maintained until the oil has warmed sufficiently. As regards temperature, one should also aim to get the oil temperature up to around 70-80C to drive off water vapour and other fumes picked up in the oil. This is where the Enfield engines score well over engines that have separate remote oil tanks as their engines directly heat the oil tank by conduction. If you have regular short trips then you might try a lower level of oil as it will warm up faster and the “mayonnaise” problem will be reduced substantially. Don’t forget the oil feed to the engine is at the bottom of the tank and not half way up. However if you have strict oil mileage change routines then you must factor in that half the amount of oil circulating is doubling the usage of that amount oil so you might choose to change the oil more frequently (half the mileage) to match the reduced amount. However as the oil is now working at the correct higher temperature one could easily argue that the oil life has been extended by quite a bit (A big reduction in acidic water circulating) so one could achieve the same mileage from a lesser amount of oil, perhaps reducing wear and saving money at the same time ……. .. Just as an extra note, the anti-wear additive ZDP is most likely to be found in API grades SF or SG as after that the later API grades had to use a reduced amount for environmental and catalytic converter reasons….whether the later API grades are suitable in old style engines, one can read totally opposite opinions, so make your own informed choice. Just my thoughts and my thoughts ONLY. One should do as one thinks best themselves after carefully taking in all the facts.
By Les H
#12341
OOOPS!...left out a bit (Again!) Should have said: A HIGHER PERCENTAGE OF the anti-wear additive "ZDP" is to be found in API grades SF or SG as after that the later API grades had to use a reduced amount etc etc.
By m1ks
#12348
Way too technical for just after work Les, but input is gratefully appreciated, :)
Are roller bearing cranks standard in some of these models?
Mines a 2000 350 bullet classic BTW.

Norm, are you running sealed bearings in your box? or just running 15w40 with the stock ones and wiping up the dribbles? Are there any dribbles?
By Norm
#12353
m1ks
Sealed bearings in the gearboxes, spots on the ground if left on the sidestand after a ride apart from that no prodlems. Main reason I believe it spots on the sidestand is a bit of oil between the mainshaft and the mainshaft sleve and then escaping through the felt sleve on the sprocket nut
By Les H
#12366
Hi MK1S..No, all standard Bullets have floating bush big ends. I just mentioned it as many owners get their cranks converted to a roller type or use the Hitchcocks roller crank, without considering a change of oil type. The post also would apply to most British singles too apart from the later BSA's which use a plain bearing big-end....Note that some owners of Bullets also use mono grade oils even with the floating bush fitted.
By John J
#12373
Following up on gearbox sealed bearings, it seems to me that the drive side bearing is already sealed with the present design, ie oil seals on both shafts. This means that only the timing side gearbox bearing needs to be changed to enable oil only to be used. No need to dismantle primary chaincase,clutch etc and no need to remove gearbox internals.
By m1ks
#12374
In that case Les, having not been told otherwise I will have to assume that mine is bog stock with plain bearings.
Useful info though, thanks for that.

JohnJ, thanks for the additional info on the g/box bearing situation.
By marsie
#12402
15/40 Tractor Oil from my local agricultural supplier.If it's good enough for the B/E's on my 18:1 compression Massey Ferg it should be OK for the Enfield bush. Time will tell.
Tutoro Oiler for the chain. Oils the chain when the bike moves and stops when the bike stops.Simple really.
Unlike that famous vacum induced device.

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